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 在尼斯去那儿吃饭？【zt】Nice: Going Straight to the Source for Provença |
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天蝎座的
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作者：天蝎座的 在 海归茶馆 发贴, 来自【海归网】 http://www.haiguinet.com
刚刚收到食神文章一篇，唉，vacation is still weeks away, 已经没有心情上班了。
Nice: Going Straight to the Source for Proven鏰l Cuisine （New York Times)
By MARK BITTMAN June 2006
IF there's a problem with France, it is that the food is often entirely too "French." Offerings like crepes, coq au vin and cassoulet are so common that there is a danger of forgetting that they all have actual regions of origin and are not national dishes.
This danger is omnipresent in Nice, where 80 percent of the restaurants cater to 90 percent of the tourists by offering mostly "French" food, ignoring the well-defined, well-maintained, universally revered and quite wonderful cuisine of Provence. In Nice this cuisine is even more local, and it would be a shame to visit this old and quintessential Mediterranean city without indulging in cuisine Nissarde, to use the preferred indigenous word.
It would be disingenuous to say that the city's old quarter, known as Vieux Nice, is lost in time, but it does remain quiet and mysterious, a place apart. In the southern part of the area you get a sense of the nearby sea, but can only glimpse it through a couple of arches in the wall. A massive church looms at the end of a street almost too narrow for two people to walk abreast. And yet, on that same street, three not-yet-teenagers zoom back and forth on skateboards, bouncing off the walls.
Then there are the restaurants and takeout places, which run the gamut from the tourist traps on Cours Saleya to establishments that are among the most authentic in France. You might start, as so many people do, at the ultimate (and wonderful) tourist trap, Chez Theresa. Here stands the queenly Theresa, next to a portrait of herself, smoking a cigarette and expertly cutting a large round of socca 梙ot, peppery flatbread ?into manageable pieces.
Her socca is even better straight from the oven, and you can find the oven (and other good socca joints) by taking Rue Droite north, where you'll also find the restaurants discussed here, as well as a medieval quarter that is as large and as well maintained as any in France.
Like much of this part of the world, Nice is warm but also mountainous and dry (think of Los Angeles). Rain falls almost exclusively in winter, so the cuisine is not one of plenty. For example, the most common dessert is tarte aux blettes, a sweet pie based on Swiss chard; socca, a staple, is made of chickpea flour, water, olive oil and the occasional onion. In the authentic restaurants, fish is strictly local.
The good restaurants in Vieux Nice are truly authentic, not even remotely fancy, though a couple are lovely, especially if the weather allows you to sit outside. By fortunate coincidence, they're also notably inexpensive, though all of them would remain worth a visit if they doubled their prices.
Chez Palmyre is not the best restaurant in Vieux Nice, or even the best on Rue Droite (Acchiardo, I think, could make that claim), but if you asked me for the one restaurant you should not miss were you in town only for a day, this would be where I'd send you. It offers real, local home cooking, so that even if there were an equivalent in every city in the world (which there most decidedly is not), each would be unique.
Chez Palmyre is the opposite of stylish and trendy; the d閏or is irrelevant, as if done by one of your more impoverished and tasteless older relatives. The service is friendly and effective; the owner, a large, middle-aged, hard-working woman wearing coke-bottle glasses, brings you menus and tolerably decent wine, takes your order and proceeds to go cook it. The ingredients are from the local markets (by "local," I'm pretty sure we're talking about a half-mile radius), the menu changes daily, the repertory is limited, and the experience ironically exotic. What will you eat? I'm not sure; nearly everything on the menu changes daily. For first courses, I sampled a plain but flavorful vegetable soup with croutons; a fine little salade ni鏾ise; and hard-boiled eggs with anchovies, a fish with which this stretch of the Mediterranean is obsessed.
These were followed by fried sardines, done nearly perfectly and mouth-burningly hot; or pasta "?l'Italienne" ("what does that mean?" I asked. "Bolognese!" Madame replied, as if there were no other); or alouette sans t阾e ?l'ancienne, a version of rolled veal scallops, stuffed with ham, cheese and pork, and cooked in a strong, sweet sauce of tomatoes, carrots and wine. All were just fine, not the kind of food that makes you quiver with joy but that makes you sigh with satisfaction.
Just down the street is Acchiardo, a good-looking place with a bar, five rows of three tables, close together, and an attractive staff. The clientele is largely if not entirely local; Acchiardo has made it into the guidebooks, but its charms do not readily reveal themselves to the non-adventurous.
I loved it. It's a loud, friendly (and smoky) place, where people drink as avidly as they eat, but where the food is far from an afterthought. Everything here was delicious, from the innovative-seeming swordfish with confited lemon to the perfectly cooked calf's liver spread with a perhaps unprecedented amount of parsley and raw garlic, to the soupe au pistou. And you should order any or all of those, or whatever else appeals to you; the food seems consistently reliable.
But do not, under any circumstances, skip the classic ni鏾is version of gnocchi (its name, even in French, cannot be printed here), made with Swiss chard and served with one of three sauces: gorgonzola, pistou or tomato. These are soft and light, and the sauces complement them perfectly.
For the most enjoyable atmosphere, a slight step up in service, and really classic ni鏾ise cuisine, I'd opt for L'Escalinada. Sit outside if at all possible; the only traffic is by foot or bicycle, and the view of the pastel-colored buildings (and, often, their inhabitants, talking, yelling, sunning themselves or hanging laundry on their balconies) is soothing by both day and night. When you sit down, they'll bring you a huge bowl of chickpeas (you help yourself), a glass of kir and a square of pissaladi鑢e, the local, tomato-less, onion-laden version of pizza.
The nicely executed menu includes starters like stuffed encornets (squid bodies, filled with chard and rice), fried zucchini flowers and other tidbits, and roasted peppers. For main courses, there are off-cuts of meat like kidney and tripe, a variety of pasta dishes, delicious fried mullet, and secca d'Entrevaux, dried beef in the style of a nearby mountain town, sprinkled with oil and raw garlic.
Do order the porchetta. This is another local specialty, a slab of pork rolled around a number of cuts of meat (I could not count them), the size of a mortadella, which is to say maybe 10 inches across. The half-inch-thick slab makes a perfect mosaic on your plate and, seasoned as it is with fennel, black pepper, garlic and salt, and served with near-perfect gnocchi ?so light as to vanish in the mouth ?with a deconstructed pistou (basil, oil, garlic, salt, no more), it was an exemplary and even exciting dish.
There are other places worth mentioning, and to single out a few: La Table Alziari, owned by the family that produces the region's best-known olive oil (you've probably seen the blue-and-yellow can), is right next door to L'Escalinada, with an equally pleasant outside eating scene. The food is just as good (it was a toss-up as to which I would give more attention, but the porchetta decided that); go for the unbelievable broiled sardines (stuffed, of course, with chard) and the chickpea frites.
For a snack, head up the street to Ren?Socca, where you can get local specialties including socca and a sweet, delicious version of tarte aux blettes. At Lou Balico, just outside the old town, try the poutine omelet (in the spring, when they are in season), which will make a visit worthwhile.
Where to Eat
From abroad, dial 33-4, then the number; in France, dial 04, then the number.
FOR MEALS
Chez Theresa, Cours Saleya; 93-85-00-04. Socca, 2.5 euros, about $3.25 at $1.30 to the euro.
Chez Palmyre, 5, rue Droite; 93-85-72-32. Dinner for two without wine, 26 euros.
Acchiardo, 38, rue Droite; 93-85-51-16. Dinner for two without wine, about 50 euros.
L'Escalinada, 22, rue Pairoli鑢e; 93-62-11-71. Dinner for two without wine, 46 euros.
La Table Alziari, 4, rue Fran鏾is Zanin; 93-80-34-03. Dinner for two with wine, 65 to 85 euros.
Lou Balico, 20, avenue St. Jean-Baptiste; 93-85-93-71. Dinner for two with wine, about 65 euros.
FOR SNACKS
Ren?Socca, 1, rue Pairoli鑢e; 93-92-05-73. A plate of appetizers with dessert is about 9 euros.
Auer, 7, rue St. Francois-de-Paule; 93-85-77-98. A candy store; about one-quarter pound of fruit confit costs 5.7 euros.
作者：天蝎座的 在 海归茶馆 发贴, 来自【海归网】 http://www.haiguinet.com
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 在尼斯去那儿吃饭？【zt】Nice: Going Straight to the Source for Provença -- 天蝎座的 - (8958 Byte) 2007-6-14 周四, 11:13 (1101 reads)
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